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Q&As: Fixing Medallions, Slow-Dry Sealer & Wood Floor Maintenance

By HF Editors
February/March 2012
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Medallion Rx

Can I repair/replace a curled piece of my installed medallion?

Brenda Kubasta, owner and president of Winneconne, Wis.-based Oshkosh Designs, answers:

Before any repair of the inlay is done, it is extremely important that you determine what caused the piece to curl in the first place. Most commonly, it is a lack of sufficient moisture levels in the home. It is vital that reasonable humidity conditions (35-45% RH at 60-75°F) are maintained consistently throughout the home.

Begin by testing and recording levels throughout the home. After confirming that the levels are inadequate, recommend the placement of a humidifier in the room to stabilize the levels before beginning any repair. Surprisingly, this may quickly remedy the problem with minimal additional work from you. As the piece rebounds, it may flatten, and by simply squeezing a small amount of liquid epoxy under the piece and pressing the piece back into place, your repair may be complete.

If it is determined that humidity is not the problem, another cause may be glue-bond failure. This creates a bit more of a repair challenge. Start by contacting the manufacturer of the inlay to discuss your options. The inlay manufacturer will provide you with recommendations and their product assembly process. Most often a replacement piece will be provided and you will receive detailed step-by-step instructions on the removal and replacement of the piece.

Just as with hardwood flooring, inlays will expand and contract during heating and non-heating seasons as well as react to the movement in the flooring surrounding them. It is imperative to stress maintaining the proper humidity levels in the home to avoid unnecessary repairs.

Slow-Dry Sealer

I recently put down a quick-dry oil-based sealer on a red oak floor in a house still under construction. The house was closed in but the HVAC was not hooked up yet. The sealer took two days to dry instead of two hours, like it said on the back of the container. Why?

Mark Mukosiej, technical support & training at Greenwood Village, Colo.-based Arboritec USA, answers:

There are a lot of variables that need to be factored in to have a wood floor job come out successfully. Unfortunately, often the NWFA’s and, more importantly, the finish manufacturer’s, guidelines for temperature, MC and RH are ignored. When I started out as a floor contractor years ago, I quickly realized that I also needed to be a weatherman. Mother Nature can, and usually does, wreak havoc with a wood floor job. Rarely do we have ideal conditions on a job site. Keeping up with the weather should be a daily habit of every floor contractor.

Temperature, RH and MC of the wood are the key factors that need to be addressed when putting finish down. Most manufacturers’ guidelines (on every container) suggest that the RH should be between 35-55%, and the temperature between 60-80°F. The MC of the wood will vary according to the wood species and the region of the country. If the MC, RH and the temperature of the air, wood and finish are not within these parameters, problems will arise. You may get applicator streaks, orange peel, or alligatoring. The drying times will also be affected.

In an existing house these conditions are likely under control. However, in new construction they rarely are. You, as a professional, should have control of the job site. This, in part, means that you must advise the homeowners, or builder, that they must bring the house to proper conditions before you start the job. This will enable you to stay within the manufacturer’s and NWFA guidelines that were set so finishes would perform as they were intended to. By making sure the job site environment is as it should be, you will have the maximum opportunity of having a successful result: avoiding callbacks and getting paid!

Cleaning Questions

People are always asking me what to use to clean their floors. What should I tell them?

Rusty Swindoll, technical services manager at the National Wood Flooring Association, answers:

This can be confusing since there are so many cleaners to choose from. Here are some tips for your customers:

  • If you have a site-applied finish, follow the finish manufacturer’s recommendations.
  • If you purchased a factory-finished wood floor, the retailer or the flooring manufacturer should have a specific recommendation for maintenance.
  • If you aren’t sure what type of finish is on your wood floor, have a wood floor professional look at it to determine what kind of cleaner should be used. The professional can also let you know if your floor is due to be recoated, needs to be waxed (this applies only to a wood floor with an existing wax finish) or needs to be completely resanded and finished.
  • Just picking any random wood floor cleaner—even one that says on the label that it’s for use on wood flooring—could cause issues for your wood floor.
  • Keep in mind that using steam or excessive water may damage a wood floor.



Wood floor inlays/borders/medallions    Waterborne finish            Finishing wood flooring    Wood floor maintenance    Wood floor repairs                   

 Comments:

wood floor maintenance is not a brain surgery, we placed a page on our website www.taylorhardwood.com under proper maintenance we tell all of our customers NOT TO USE ANY OIL SOAP and to clean there floors with vinegar and water 15:1 if there in doubt about what to clean your floor with put some on a window let it dry if it leaves a film DON'T PUT IT ON YOUR FLOOR , and after 40 years of doing this no problems sure I don't get to make the profit from after market cleaners but money isn't everything dan
dan taylor hardwood  owner  2/29/2012 9:52:44 PM

Dan is right. Vinegar & water. That is all I have ever told my customers over 31 years. Every once in a while a past customer will call saying that their floor is getting cloudy looking. I ask the question as to what they are using to clean the floor and invariabley they were trying some "new" cleaning product. I tell them to use vinegar & water like I did when I first did the floor and then call me back and let me know if there is a difference. Some call back telling me it was like night and day. It is a lot cheaper too.
Herb Fogelberg  VP/CFO/chief putz  3/12/2012 2:35:51 PM

At the risk of sounding too, whats the opposite of "Old Fashioned", maybe "Modern" or "Contemporary" or what the heck, just following the manufacturers instructions, vinegar and water have not been recommended for either prefinished wood floors or any maker of floor finish I am familiar with for 2 decades at least. Hired by our company 34 years ago we did the v & g route for cleaning our Swedish finish, Synteko by brand, but when they suggested that their cleaner was what they wanted us to use, we FOLLOWED THE MANUFACTURERS DIRECTIONS. They have their reasons for selling cleaners, gosh I hope that making money was not involved but if it were, well, so be it. If I want to disregard the directions and go cheap, except of course when that v & g mixture does something to their brand new floor, good luck having the maker of the concoction come to the jobsite. As far as NO OIL SOAP, NWFA in the past has had advertisements for a major maker of that product. Be careful who you libel by such declarations.
Eric C. Jensen  Senior Territory Manager  3/14/2012 2:01:17 PM

I'm sure that manufacturers have very good reasons for suggesting their cleaning products. Vinegar and water is safe, non-toxic, and cleans remarkably well but you can't sell it for $15 plus a bottle. Mixed in the right proportion it can't possibly damage a floor. If it does I would certainly never install that product again. As far as the 'libel' against the oil soap manufacturer, try re-coating a floor that has been cleaned with oil soap and tell me it's a good product.
John  owner  3/15/2012 8:26:33 PM

I'm just sayin'... nothing against vinegar and water however how about this one from a homeowner: apple cider vinegar, wine vinegar, organic triple strained Moldavian vinegar or next how about distilled water, rain water, reverse osmosis water, ordinary tap water, well water. How about we sell you a neutral ph cleaner that works on your wood, plastic laminate, terrazo etc etc for 7.95$ a quart including the trigger sprayer. As far as recoating, Proctor and Gamble will tell you that with proper surface preparation, you can recoat over their product. Heck there was a past winner of the floor of the year contest who touted that brand in the pages of the NWFA magazine. I'm just sayin'...
Eric C. Jensen  Senior Territory Manager  3/15/2012 9:00:48 PM

While water & vinegar is historically used for cleaning floors it is not the ideal product. We find often that homeowners have gone totally overboard with "eyeballing" the amount of vinegar (or oil soap for that matter) which resulted in dulling of the finish. Remember that Vinegar is made up with acid! Most manufacturers have provided their own cleaning/maintenance products to be used on their products. Fair and honest, they generate sales and profit. If not it would not be worth to do so! To get back to the real topic, what floor cleaner to use? Select the recommended cleaner that way you are safe and know that when time comes around to abrade/recoat a floor that you can do so with limited risk. Any cleaner that is used has some solids which will inevitably stay behind on the substrate, even so-called “no-rinse” cleaners. Excessive use of cleaners (or using excessive amounts of concentrate when you mix your own) will do so also and often will exhibit itself with scuffing/marring of the floor. What it really boils down to is that over time some residue remains/builds up and from time-to-time you need to do some “deep cleaning” with a HD soap to remove residue build up. Vinegar and water will not remove all spills and/or dirt. In the company I represent we advice to do so with our cleaning products (normal periodic cleaning and periodic “deep cleaning”). Now when it comes to the real problem is what to do when it comes time to recoating! Simply abrading and recoating a floor is plain and simple RUSSIAN ROULETTE! Who knows what was on that floor to begin with. Here it becomes important to first deep clean a floor before any abrasion is performed. Just last week I have handled 3 complaints where floor treatment products specifically targeted for Hardwood Floor cleaning were used on finished hardwood floors. They left a smudged mess on these floors. So, stick with what the manufacturer recommends!
Johannes Boonstra  Synteko Sales/Tech Supervisor  3/16/2012 10:35:21 AM


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